PARKER'S SAFES & VAULTS
|Posted on October 18, 2013 at 9:00 PM|
Greetings from PARKER'S SAFES AND VAULTS of Tennessee.
I get a lot of questions from folks who are in the market for a gun safe. I thought I'd take a few minutes and address a couple of those. (I'll be the first to admit that I'm a little biased, but my opinions are based on my personal experience. I have delivered, installed and serviced a lot of safes)
Okay, so here goes...
1. There is so much information on the web and so many companies claiming that their safes are the best, how can I choose the best safe for my money?
-Great question. No one wants to buy something and then wish later that they hadn't. quality, function and price are the main considerations.
QUALITY- A heavy safe made in the U.S.A., with 4-way active bolts, a reinforced or plate steel door perimeter, a solid plate steel door, a dial lock and at least a double step door would be what I would look for.
FUNCTION- Look for all 3 numbers on your fire rating, the temperature at which the safe was tested, the duration of the test, and most importantly, the inside temperature of the safe during the test. For example, 1500, 90 min, 349 deg. Again, a dial lock instead of an electronic one. (I know, not too trendy, but they work when you need them to.)
At least one internal re-locker. A relcking device should lock your safe internally if someone tries to force the door open or drill into your safe and manipulate the lock box.
PRICE- A quality safe is an investment. Safes that are cheap are cheap safes. Safes like most at the big box stores can be breached in a matter of minutes and offer little real security. Buy one quality safe a little bigger than you think you'll need and be done with it.
2. I'd like to get a safe, but will the floor framing in my house support it?
Generally speaking. yes. Unless you already have a lot of weight on the floor or are considering a really heavy safe.(2000 lbs.)It largely depends on where you put the safe. Placing it near an exterior or load bearing wall or directly above a support pier are the best options as the load point is closer. The sheer strength of a standard 2x10 is around 2500 pounds. With most safes, we'll span at least 2 of these so we should be fine. Another option is to reinforce your floor if you can access the crawl space or basement. I have delivered a lot of heavy safes into many different styles of homes and have never had a single floor load issue.
As always, it's my pleasure to personally entertain any safe questions you might have. If you have any questions or would like to see some quality safes in person or both, please give me a call.
Thanks for your time,