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 PARKER'S SAFES & VAULTS 

Tennessee gun safe, Nashville safe, best safe, Amsec, vault doors, best place to buy a safe, graffunder, gun safe, AMERICAN SECURITY, best gun safe, best fire safe, security, most secure safe, safe moving, Alabama gun safe, Georgia gun safe, military safes, vaults gun vaults, the best safe, secure 

-Since 2009

PARKER'S SAFES AND VAULTS has specialized in high quality safes and vault doors. We're a Veteran-owned, family-run, business. Our product lines include,  GRAFFUNDER, AMERICAN SECURITY, ISM, RHINO, GARDALL, OLD GLORY, HAYMAN and more...

We offer in home delivery and installation and ship nationwide. 


[email protected]

164 Cessna Lane

Shelbyville, TN 37160

931.842-6445


PLEASE CALL BEFORE VISITING AS WE MAY BE ON A DELIVERY! 932.842-6445

Installing an AMSEC INSWING VAULT DOOR.

Remember, this is for an INSWING DOOR. The door doesn't need to be removed for an outswing door.


American Security makes a great door. It has a solid 1/2" plate with a 1- 1/8" layer of their proprietary dry-lite concrete type mixture behind that. This combo makes for a very formidable door but the installation is a bit tough sometimes.

Here's how we address some of the problems with their design.


1. Toss out the instructions that come with the door! Well, you can read them if you want, but they won't apply if you are installing the door into a concrete jamb.

2. Put all the tools and materials you'll need as well as the interior frame inside the vault room. The tools required inside would be a couple flashlights or work lights, a small sledge hammer, a ball pein hammer, a prybar or two, some 2x4's to use as cribbing under the door that you'll remove and for a fulcrum for your prybar, a 3/8" allen wrench, (an allen socket and flexible extension for a cordless impact would help) a cordless drill and impact, a 6' level, a quick- grip clamp or two, a few 3/16" punches about 3" long (make sure these are hardened steel and that the 3/16" shaft part is about 3" long to drive the hinge pin all the way out of the hinge barrel) a 3/8"punch, a few 3/8" steel drill bits, a few 1/4" concrete/ masonry bits, 16 (sixteen) 1/4" x 3 1/2" Simpson Strong Tie Titen HD concrete anchors, a 3/8" socket, and some cardboard and duct tape, You'll also want an assistant to help move the door once it's off its hinges, If you forget something, no worries, you can just open the door a bit and have someone on the outside pass it to you. 

3. Station yourself and an assistant inside the vault room and have some help position the door into place with the outer frame snug against the outside wall.

4. Tape about a square foot of cardboard to the door and frame above each hinge to protect the paint while you are trying to beat the hinge pins out of the hinge. Trust me, just do it or you'll be touching up the paint. (The door comes with touch up paint though so suit yourself.)

5. Use the 3/8" allen wrench to remove the set screw and ball bearing  from the bottom of the hinge. (Note how they come out, one side is beveled)

6. Use the 3/16" punch to drive the hinge pin down from the top of each hinge. Yep, this is the hard part. You may have to get creative with the prybar and perhaps the small sledge hammer for the top hinge because there's little room to work.

7. Use the prybar and 2x4's to remove the door from the frame. Set the door aside carefully and with help for now by leaning it against the wall.

8. Use a little piece of duct tape and cover the hinge pin hole on the jamb. This will prevent any metal shavings from falling in there while you are drilling the steel frame.

9. Place the steel, U-shaped, interior frame trim piece in place behind the door frame. It should overlap if the the rough opening is less than 9.5 inches.

10. Use the level to plumb the jamb and secure it in place with the quick grip clamps. CHECK PLUMB BOTH DIRECTIONS AND ADJUST ACCORDINGLY.

11. Use the 3/8" steel bit and drill holes through the interior frame at the top and bottom corners by using the access holes in the main frame as a pilot. Be careful not to drill into the concrete or you'll ruin your bit. Check plumb both ways while you do this to ensure nothing has shifted.

12. Use the 1/4" masonry bit to predrill the corner holes for the Titen Anchors.

13. Do the same to predrill the remaining anchor points. 

14. Don't tighten the anchors all the way until the door is back on the hinges, but run the Titen anchors into the jamb to secure it to the frame. TAKE CARE TO NOT OVERTIGHTEN AND DISTORT THE FRAME.

15. Re-hang the door. You can use the 3/8" punch to drive the pins back up into the hinge barrel. Then install the ball bearing and Allen set screw.

16. Tighten the anchors but TAKE CARE TO NOT OVERTIGHTEN AND DISTORT THE FRAME.

17. Check the door boltworks. If there is any friction or interference, you might be able to address that by adjusting the allen set screws. 

18. Please let us know if these instructions helped or need edited! Aaron Parker 931.842-6445

19. Call AMERICAN SECURITY after you've calmed down and politely ask them to redesign their vault door frame and mention how cool a clam-shell frame would be. 



 














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Customer Questions

Posted on October 18, 2013 at 9:00 PM

Greetings from PARKER'S SAFES AND VAULTS of Tennessee.

I get a lot of questions from folks who are in the market for a gun safe. I thought I'd take a few minutes and address a couple of those. (I'll be the first to admit that I'm a little biased, but my opinions are based on my personal experience. I have delivered, installed and serviced a lot of safes)

Okay, so here goes...

First question...

 

1. There is so much information on the web and so many companies claiming that their safes are the best, how can I choose the best safe for my money?

 

-Great question. No one wants to buy something and then wish later that they hadn't. quality, function and price are the main considerations.

 

QUALITY- A heavy safe made in the U.S.A., with 4-way active bolts, a reinforced or plate steel door perimeter, a solid plate steel door, a dial lock and at least a double step door would be what I would look for.

 

FUNCTION- Look for all 3 numbers on your fire rating, the temperature at which the safe was tested, the duration of the test, and most importantly, the inside temperature of the safe during the test. For example, 1500, 90 min, 349 deg. Again, a dial lock instead of an electronic one. (I know, not too trendy, but they work when you need them to.)

At least one internal re-locker. A relcking device should lock your safe internally if someone tries to force the door open or drill into your safe and manipulate the lock box.

 

PRICE- A quality safe is an investment. Safes that are cheap are cheap safes. Safes like most at the big box stores can be breached in a matter of minutes and offer little real security. Buy one quality safe a little bigger than you think you'll need and be done with it.

 

2. I'd like to get a safe, but will the floor framing in my house support it?

 

Generally speaking. yes. Unless you already have a lot of weight on the floor or are considering a really heavy safe.(2000 lbs.)It largely depends on where you put the safe. Placing it near an exterior or load bearing wall or directly above a support pier are the best options as the load point is closer. The sheer strength of a standard 2x10 is around 2500 pounds. With most safes, we'll span at least 2 of these so we should be fine. Another option is to reinforce your floor if you can access the crawl space or basement. I have delivered a lot of heavy safes into many different styles of homes and have never had a single floor load issue.

 

As always, it's my pleasure to personally entertain any safe questions you might have. If you have any questions or would like to see some quality safes in person or both, please give me a call.

Thanks for your time,

Aaron

parkerssafesandvaults.com

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