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 PARKER'S SAFES & VAULTS 

Tennessee gun safe, Nashville safe, best safe, Amsec, vault doors, best place to buy a safe, graffunder, gun safe, AMERICAN SECURITY, best gun safe, best fire safe, security, most secure safe, safe moving, Alabama gun safe, Georgia gun safe, military safes, vaults gun vaults, the best safe, secure 

-Since 2009

PARKER'S SAFES AND VAULTS has specialized in high quality safes and vault doors. We're a Veteran-owned, family-run, business. Our product lines include,  GRAFFUNDER, AMERICAN SECURITY, ISM, RHINO, GARDALL, OLD GLORY, HAYMAN and more...

We offer in home delivery and installation and ship nationwide. 


[email protected]

164 Cessna Lane

Shelbyville, TN 37160

931.842-6445


PLEASE CALL BEFORE VISITING AS WE MAY BE ON A DELIVERY! 932.842-6445

Installing an AMSEC INSWING VAULT DOOR.

Remember, this is for an INSWING DOOR. The door doesn't need to be removed for an outswing door.


American Security makes a great door. It has a solid 1/2" plate with a 1- 1/8" layer of their proprietary dry-lite concrete type mixture behind that. This combo makes for a very formidable door but the installation is a bit tough sometimes.

Here's how we address some of the problems with their design.


1. Toss out the instructions that come with the door! Well, you can read them if you want, but they won't apply if you are installing the door into a concrete jamb.

2. Put all the tools and materials you'll need as well as the interior frame inside the vault room. The tools required inside would be a couple flashlights or work lights, a small sledge hammer, a ball pein hammer, a prybar or two, some 2x4's to use as cribbing under the door that you'll remove and for a fulcrum for your prybar, a 3/8" allen wrench, (an allen socket and flexible extension for a cordless impact would help) a cordless drill and impact, a 6' level, a quick- grip clamp or two, a few 3/16" punches about 3" long (make sure these are hardened steel and that the 3/16" shaft part is about 3" long to drive the hinge pin all the way out of the hinge barrel) a 3/8"punch, a few 3/8" steel drill bits, a few 1/4" concrete/ masonry bits, 16 (sixteen) 1/4" x 3 1/2" Simpson Strong Tie Titen HD concrete anchors, a 3/8" socket, and some cardboard and duct tape, You'll also want an assistant to help move the door once it's off its hinges, If you forget something, no worries, you can just open the door a bit and have someone on the outside pass it to you. 

3. Station yourself and an assistant inside the vault room and have some help position the door into place with the outer frame snug against the outside wall.

4. Tape about a square foot of cardboard to the door and frame above each hinge to protect the paint while you are trying to beat the hinge pins out of the hinge. Trust me, just do it or you'll be touching up the paint. (The door comes with touch up paint though so suit yourself.)

5. Use the 3/8" allen wrench to remove the set screw and ball bearing  from the bottom of the hinge. (Note how they come out, one side is beveled)

6. Use the 3/16" punch to drive the hinge pin down from the top of each hinge. Yep, this is the hard part. You may have to get creative with the prybar and perhaps the small sledge hammer for the top hinge because there's little room to work.

7. Use the prybar and 2x4's to remove the door from the frame. Set the door aside carefully and with help for now by leaning it against the wall.

8. Use a little piece of duct tape and cover the hinge pin hole on the jamb. This will prevent any metal shavings from falling in there while you are drilling the steel frame.

9. Place the steel, U-shaped, interior frame trim piece in place behind the door frame. It should overlap if the the rough opening is less than 9.5 inches.

10. Use the level to plumb the jamb and secure it in place with the quick grip clamps. CHECK PLUMB BOTH DIRECTIONS AND ADJUST ACCORDINGLY.

11. Use the 3/8" steel bit and drill holes through the interior frame at the top and bottom corners by using the access holes in the main frame as a pilot. Be careful not to drill into the concrete or you'll ruin your bit. Check plumb both ways while you do this to ensure nothing has shifted.

12. Use the 1/4" masonry bit to predrill the corner holes for the Titen Anchors.

13. Do the same to predrill the remaining anchor points. 

14. Don't tighten the anchors all the way until the door is back on the hinges, but run the Titen anchors into the jamb to secure it to the frame. TAKE CARE TO NOT OVERTIGHTEN AND DISTORT THE FRAME.

15. Re-hang the door. You can use the 3/8" punch to drive the pins back up into the hinge barrel. Then install the ball bearing and Allen set screw.

16. Tighten the anchors but TAKE CARE TO NOT OVERTIGHTEN AND DISTORT THE FRAME.

17. Check the door boltworks. If there is any friction or interference, you might be able to address that by adjusting the allen set screws. 

18. Please let us know if these instructions helped or need edited! Aaron Parker 931.842-6445

19. Call AMERICAN SECURITY after you've calmed down and politely ask them to redesign their vault door frame and mention how cool a clam-shell frame would be. 



 














BLOG/INFO

BLOG/INFO

Why are we here?

Posted on February 17, 2014 at 10:35 PM

Here's a brief history of how I got involved with safes. I have an Uncle, Larry Parker in Ohio, who's been selling safes for about 25 years. Some of you may be familiar with his work as a Master hammer and chisel engraver and riflebuilder. He's developed quite a reputation in that arena.

Anyway, about 6 years ago, I asked him what it would take to get involved in the safe business. I was working as a finish carpenter in Flagstaff, AZ. at the time. He said, "Well, I'll get back with you." I wasn't sure if that meant that he'd get back with me in a few hours, days or what, so the wait was on. About 3 days later, he called and told me to expect a call from Ray Crosby, the owner of Champion and Superior Safes. Mr. Crosby is also the the guy that started Fort Knox and Liberty Safe companies. So, Ray called and we talked about various things like demographics, sales, delivering safes, etc. He then invited me up to Provo, Utah to learn about safes. A few weeks later, I was in Provo working final assembly and taking copious notes from Ray and his staff. Ray sent me home with a safe to get the ball rolling and I was off. I sold that one and ordered some more. I was loving it! I had worked as a Park Ranger in Grand Teton National Park, A snowmobile guide in Yellowstone National Park and the Bridger-Teton National Forest, A timber-framer in Aspen, Colorado and yet, I felt that I'd finally found my calling. After about a year of selling safes out of my garage, I quit my carpentry job and started selling safes full time in a retail store In downtown Flagstaff. Praise the Lord for the timing because the bottom soon dropped out of construction. Things were going well, I was meeting gun owners by setting up as a vendor at gun shows, placing ads on the radio and newspaper, and networking with other busines owners. Most of my business though was through referrals which I soon learned was the anchor of sales success. I did all I could do to take care of my customers and provide a quality product and flawless delivery. The payoff was dramatic. I'd sell one safe and then sell 3 or 4 more thanks to their referrals.

In 2011, my wife and I decided to move east to be closer to family. It was a hard decision but seemed like the right one. We sold our house. I sold my business to my old boss. We packed up, headed east and now here we are in Tennessee. It's good to be here. I like a place where God and common sense are still revered. A year ago (March 2012) I started Parker's Safes and Vaults. Thanks to new friends who helped me get launched and to my customers who have taken the time to provide testimonials for my website and refer me to their friends and family, my business is again doing well. THANK YOU.

It would seem that creating a blog gives me a license to ramble. I will however try to make it worth your while by sprinkling in some good information from time to time. I'm new at the blog scene though so any advice is appreciated. Here's a little something... Bolt down your safe. Don't assume that just because it's heavy, it's secure. The bad guys know how to take the whole safe. If it's not bolted down, it's just a convenient box for them to carry your stuff out in. If you need some pointers on how to do it, I'm at your service.

Thanks for having a look!

Respectfully,

Aaron

ParkersSafesandVaults.com

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